SJI Summer Days 60 & 61 - Whales!

This boat was anchored in Reid Harbor and left the same time we did. Another one of those vessels that make us say “wow.”

We were able to grab a mooring buoy in Reid Harbor, even though there were over 50 boats there already. (Plenty of room for more – it’s a fairly large harbor with good anchoring conditions throughout.) After kayaking to the beach, we hiked the trail and county road to the community of Prevost. Beautiful!

The next morning, we were low on power so we decided to motor again. We headed back to Jones Island.

On the way I kept noticing a few boats hovering in the distance. That usually means there are whales but they were too far away be able to tell what was going on. As we got closer to Jones, I finally saw the blows! I turned Europa in that direction, as we weren’t in any hurry and I hate to turn away from any potential of seeing whales. As we got closer, we could determine there were two humpbacks (although it looked like a lot more at times!) Taking photos on a phone, on a moving boat, from a distance, is very difficult but I turned the helm over to my co-captain and gave it my best. I caught a couple of blows, a couple of dorsal fins, and a couple of tail lobs.

The whales moved along so we continued to Jones Island, anchored, and stern tied. I soon spied a few whale watching boats out through the mouth of the harbor, and sure enough the two humpbacks were there! Only saw them briefly before they headed north and out of sight.

After a couple of hours (around 4pm), we realized we were out of water! That doesn’t happen to us much, as our tank holds 60 gallons and we typically have more than enough. We really don’t pay much attention to conserving water, so this time we just used more than normal. We had drinking water, because we carry that separately, but with no connectivity, no water for dishes and showers, and a bit low on power because of the short distance we traveled, we pulled the stern tie, raised the anchor, and headed back to Roche Harbor! This is not a time of day we usually travel. The water was calm and gorgeous.

This puts us here a couple of days early, but we got a great spot because we arrived in the window between the super busy Labor Day weekend and the arrival of all the Ranger/Cutwater boats on Wednesday and Thursday. They will let us stay in this berth the entire time. I have a ton of laundry to do, and we have major boat-cleaning chores to take care of, so the extra days will be good. We also hope to get a bike ride to Lime Kiln park in before the event activities kick in.

Technically, the Rendezvous is Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, with seminars, fun (for some!) games (I actually like the scavenger hunt), technical help, and dinners catered by the hotel. We plan to leave on Sunday with Coorie Doon to continue exploring.

SJI Summer Days 58 & 59 - Crabbing

Nick reassessed crabbing conditions, which prompted us to change our plans…switching Stuart Island for Garrison Bay. So, we left Fisherman Bay and headed to Roche Harbor, where we pumped out and filled the water tank in preparation for some nights at anchor. (That place was a zoo at the start of Labor Day weekend!) We continued on through Mosquito Pass to Garrison Bay. After anchoring, Nick took the dinghy and dropped the pot…less than two hours later he limited at five good keepers! Crab for dinner!

Nicked shelled the remaining three crab and made nice crab rolls for lunch on Saturday. (Then he got two more from the pot!)

We took the dinghy to the dock at English Camp, took a short hike around Ball Point, and then back to the park, where volunteers were on hand to depict historical life. There was a replica forge, a quilter, toys and games (gambling), and a guy with rifles. He demonstrated the steps to load and fire. (We wondered what the boom noise was that we kept hearing from the boat.)

Fire!

On to Stuart Island…

SJI Summer Days 55 - 57 - Our favorite anchorage

Can you guess where we are?

We made the short trip from Friday Harbor (San Juan Island) to Fisherman Bay (Lopez Island) on Wednesday. It’s been a bit windy, which has mitigated the hot weather a bit. (Nick has been saying all summer that he thinks the weather is windier than usual, in general. Several locals have agreed.)

Fisherman Bay is our favorite spot. It may be about our comfort level with both the island, overall, and the anchoring conditions. We feel safe and protected here, and enjoy the quiet and the views. And it's the fish tacos at Bucky’s…and it’s the bike riding…and it’s the Lopez Village Thrift Shop…and it’s the sunsets…

Janine's bedroom window - Fisherman Bay sunset

As the window decal I saw yesterday states: Don’t change Lopez; Let Lopez change you.

We rode our bikes to check out the rental house we booked for next summer’s family trip. Quite nice.

It rained last night, and this morning is foggy. Our plan after the fog burns off is to head north to Stuart Island. (It’s the start of Labor Day weekend so we are prepared to see a lot of boats on the water!) After a couple of nights in Reid Harbor, we’ll head to Garrison Bay. This will put us back at San Juan Island, and just around the corner from Roche Harbor, where we will be for five days participating in the Ranger Tugs/Cutwater boats annual rendezvous. (200 boats!) Looking forward to connecting with Coorie Doon!

SJI Summer Days 51 - 54, Deer Harbor

Our second evening in Snoring Bay rewarded us with a lovely sunset.

We will add insect repellent to our shopping list. (Don’t have any on the boat but fortunately I packed two types of itch relief!) Sucia Island had a lot of mosquitoes. No mosquito will go near Nick, but if there is one within five miles of me, it will hunt me down and eat me alive.

We went back to Deer Harbor, Orcas Island, but decided to anchor rather than find room at the dock. Anchorage is really good, and there was plenty of room. The marina has a café (Lopez Village Creamery ice cream!) and a small gift shop. There is a resort there as well, but we didn’t venture into that. We did take a walk up the road a bit, over the bridge to the lagoon, and then to the neighboring marina. Also took a couple of nice kayak trips to the lagoon. Had to turn back the first time, as the lagoon drains at low tide. Really nice trip on our second try.

As we were eating our dinner – more about that in a minute – a large-ish barge came right up next to us, weaving between moored boats, to get to the second marina’s boat ramp. A couple of U-Haul vans got off, and then the barge turned around and left the harbor. I mention this only because I really enjoy watching working boats. They do amazing things in small spaces…this guy knew what he was doing.

Dinner: One of our go to meals, especially if we have veggies to use up, is a one-plate assembly of sautéed vegetables (in this case – cabbage, carrots, onion, cilantro, peppers, & zucchini), rice, and a pouch of either garbanzo masala, or lentils (spiced, Indian style). We also have pouched brown rice if we don’t have either freshly cooked basmati, or leftover rice. These pouches all come from Costco, and are perfect for boating meals.

We returned to Friday Harbor yesterday. We’ll stay here for a couple of days to take care of the usual things: cleaning the boat, pumping out, filling the water tank, shopping, and charging various devices and equipment. One of our goals today is to go over the entire boat with a rust removal product.

SJI Summer Day 50 - Sucia Island

Before I begin my report about wonderful Sucia Island, I want to extend an invitation. I really like to see comments! Please comment! Remember...it's just the two of us on this boat…for days at a time. (We talked to a six-year-old on the beach yesterday…thank god.) I’ve only received one comment that was in any way objectionable. “Wind is no excuse.” Really?

The crossing yesterday was less-than-fun. We sped up and got it over with quickly. 2 to 4-foot swells aren’t scary, but they are uncomfortable. At one point, I turned around to look at our wake to see what things look like when we are doing 12 to 14 knots through lumpy water. This photo doesn’t seem nearly as turbulent as I experienced it.

We were headed for Fossil Bay, the largest anchorage around Sucia, and a popular place. As we passed the bay just before Fossil, Snoring Bay (named for a park ranger found snoring on the job), we noticed there was one boat tied to a ball, and one ball open. We continued a few yards more and saw there were docks, at least a dozen mooring buoys, and plenty of boats in Fossil Bay. We did an abrupt U-turn and tied to the second ball in Snoring.

Very beautiful here. The sandstone cliffs are dramatic. We motored to shore to drop off our park registration and took a short hike to one of the points. Oh, and had an interesting, if non-linear, conversation with a six-year-old boy about our boats, a whale (he changed that to seal), his camping plans, our plans, and a few other things.

unknown plant

View out from the point

View into Snoring Bay

View from head of Snoring Bay

We also watched a resident otter swim around. It dove for clams, came to the surface and awkwardly crunched and gulped, then went to shore, groomed for a bit, and then did it all over again. Do they really eat the entire clam, shell and all? (I have wondered about those piles of poop we see that seem to be crunched up shells…)

We rocked and rolled a bit last night, and it's raining this morning. Hoping for better weather so we can hike more trails on the island.

SJI Summer Day 49 - Crocheted Baskets

It rained sporadically yesterday, clearing a bit in the evening. We got our “spa” day at the resort. A dip in the hot tub, then Nick hit the sauna while I found a quiet room to catch up on my yoga practice. (I haven’t been keeping up with this – more about that another time.) Then we played Pickle Ball. This was a first, although I played as a kid a few times. We play tennis, so we did okay. We need to find a way to keep playing – it’s fun and a good workout.

When we first arrived here on Monday, the nice couple a couple of slips away, invited us to take a look at their houseboat. The smaller cruiser next to it is theirs as well, which they use for crabbing and day trips. They own these two slips. After they retired, they built this houseboat in their backyard! They live here six months of the year, then head to the southwest where they keep an RV. What a life.

We continue to be entertained by the zillion little fish, especially when they are being chased and start hopping out of the water. We can see and hear this happen all over the marina. As you can imagine, there are quite a few herons that hang out here. We watched one standing on the dock, easily picking fish out of the water. These birds sure don’t have to work hard for a meal. The heron in this photo did not move as I got nearer. I finally stopped because I just didn’t want to get any closer. If you look closely, you might notice that this bird is standing on a dock that is carpeted. Yes, the owners of the big and beautiful Helmsman that is just out of the frame behind the heron, laid a long runner down the dock.

I've mentioned how nice this marina is - I did a load of laundry for three bucks. That's pretty good.

I’ve crocheted some baskets for use on the boat. I like them because they are soft and flexible – perfect for small spaces, and the likelihood of getting tossed about. The two oblong-shaped baskets are in the v-berth, and fit nicely on the long, narrow shelf along the sides – great for reading glasses, earplugs, earbuds, tissues, etc. I use one of the round ones in the head for hair ties, and the other on the “dash” for little stuff we reach for all the time. Useful…and really fun projects.

It blew hard last night. This afternoon looks good for departing for Sucia Island. We’ll see…

SJI Summer Days 47 & 48 - Semiahmoo Marina

The water was relatively calm on our way north to Semiahmoo Bay. This is the water at the butt end of the Strait of Georgia, just south of Boundary Bay. We could see Vancouver in the hazy distance. In the few hours it took us to get here, we saw just a handful of other boats.

Just out of Inati Bay, we passed a WCC work-site – an old mine restoration project at Smuggler’s Cove.

Old mine at Smuggler's Cove, Lummi Island

The Semiahmoo Marina is very nice! Excellent docks, and the facilities are pristine. Free showers! The grounds are well kept, with nice spaces for hanging out if you want to get off your boat for a while. The resort and marina are at the end of a long spit that separates Drayton Harbor from Semiahmoo Bay.

Rounding the corner - Semiahmoo Resort

The entire marina is filled with small fish. Herring most likely, in large schools of varying sizes of fishies. (We were told this was once a herring fishery.) They are fun to watch, as they shimmer in the light and do crazy things when bigger fish are…well…fishing.

Yesterday we unloaded the bikes and rode twenty miles or so south to Birch Bay. We’ve been here a few times before, but off season. It’s a completely different place in the summer time. Everything looks a little more spiffed up, and the seasonal candy & ice cream store is open. It’s one of those quintessential coastal kinds of places, with salt water taffy and all kinds of candy made on the premises.

Dinner out was a treat at Packers Kitchen + Bar at the Semiahmoo resort, a favorite restaurant of ours. The marina and resort are separate entities but marina guests receive 10% off by showing the marina key fob.

View from the beach in front of Semiahmoo Resort

It’s Wednesday morning, and while it did rain overnight, the wind didn’t kick in as expected. The forecast doesn’t look great, wind-wise, for crossing open water. We may be “stuck” here for another day or two. Not a bad place for staying extra days as needed. Marina guests also receive a discounted day pass to the resort spa, so we may enjoy a soak – and maybe some pickle ball if the rains stops.