Monday, August 10, 2020

Whales! | August 9 & 10 | Coupeville & Eagle Harbor

 Small group of Orcas in Possession Sound (just south of Clinton, Whidbey Island).

 














We had an uneventful transit through the Swinomish Channel and into Skagit Bay – unlike last time with all the speeding boats. (La Conner redeemed.)

We headed toward Coupeville, Whidbey Island, which is another place that is a bit questionable. It’s a very busy, small dock – many day trippers. Fortunately, we were hailed and waved into a spot after only a few minutes of arrival. We asked about other boats being rafted to us – like last time. They said they didn’t think they’d do that other than with the smaller boats. Most places are not allowing rafting due to social distancing. There aren’t other options in Penn Cove though, so they do their best to fit everyone in.

Things calmed down in the evening…and no other boats were tied to us.

 

Coupeville Wharf

Our next planned stop was Langley but they are at capacity at the dock tonight…and we’re not too keen on anchoring there again. So…heading to Eagle Harbor.

Saturday, August 8, 2020

Big Boats | August 7 & 8 | La Conner

The two nights we spent at Cap Sante were nice – this was Europa’s first visit to Anacortes. We were safely tucked in through winds gusting over 20 knots. We took a couple of walks in waterfront parks, walked around town, and watched a lot of big boats going in and out. With breezy conditions and strong currents, I was a little intimidated by the marina traffic. Anacortes is a jumping off point for many people and there are countless boats coming and going at all times. And as mentioned…a large number of sizable cruisers.

On Friday, we left Cap Sante for La Conner. Crossing Rosario Strait was gnarly. (Small craft advisory.)

After our last visit to La Conner (remember the yelling in the sailboat?), we decided to try the marina instead of the public docks where we always stay. We pulled right in – still some room even though they are requiring boats to be twenty feet apart.

Lots of wildlife on the way into the channel.

herons by the hundreds

seals

white pelicans

osprey

We visited the American Tugs factory and had a nice chat with Kurt Dilworth. (Speaking of bigger boats.)

Last night was blissfully quiet, with little to no rocking and rolling from passing wakes. Also, no worry of getting hit by logs in the channel.

This boat is beautiful. I watched it pull out of Cap Sante yesterday, and it was at the same guest dock in La Conner when we arrived.

Blue Peter, from Seattle

Here are a few more photos from the past few weeks.

Janine & Nick - Europa & Coorie Doon rafting in Prevost Harbor
dock buddy

Zs getting Gus to shore
another shore trip

Lady Bahi in Friday Habor

Thursday, August 6, 2020

Expansive Ocean Views & Sparkling Blue Water | July 15 – August 2 | Lopez/Roche/Prevost/FH/Islander/FB/East Sound/Anacortes

July 15                Anchored in Garrison Bay, San Juan Island

July 16                Friday Harbor marina, San Juan Island

July 17                Anchored in Shoal Bay, Lopez Island

July 18 – 24        Mooring ball in Shoal Bay, Lopez Island

July 25 – 27        Roche Harbor marina, San Juan Island

July 28                Anchored in Prevost Harbor, Stuart Island

July 29 – 31        Friday Harbor marina, San Juan Island

August 1 & 2      Lopez Islander Resort marina, Lopez Island

August 3             Anchored in Fisherman Bay, Lopez Island

August 4             Anchored in Judd Bay, East Sound, Orcas Island

August 5 & 6      Cap Sante Marina, Anacortes       

Corrie Doon on the left

The last couple of weeks have been busy with family, friends, and boating/biking/hiking/kayaking adventures.

The photo above does not do justice to the vast views found in the northern San Juan Islands, looking into Canada, and the brilliance of bright sunshine reflected in deep water.

On Friday, July 17, Europa entered Shoal Bay on Lopez Island to anchor overnight in front of the rental house we had reserved for the week. The owners provide a mooring ball, so we tied to that the next day. Our week on the island was great, minus a few people including our grandson. We understood that young family’s decision to stay out of the mix, but we missed them. So, we were joined by Nick’s sister Kit, and our daughter Sierra and her significant other, Brian. We did all the usual stuff, the weather was divine, and much fun was had by all. Thanks to Sierra for menu planning, shopping, and cooking a lot of delicious food. (Note: It was a bit difficult having Europa on a ball and relying on the kayaks and dinghy for crabbing and getting everything (bikes/clothing/etc.) back and forth.)

The following Saturday, we met Coorie Doon and crew at Roche Harbor. After three nights there we moved on to Prevost Harbor. There was no room at the dock, so we anchored and Coorie Doon rafted to Europa. We had a good hike and some kayaking then moved on to Friday Harbor, spending the next three nights at the marina.

Friday Harbor was busy…more of what we’re finding everywhere. There are just a lot of boats around! We had to wait for a spot, and Corrie Doon had to move after the first night.

We left Friday Harbor on Saturday (August 1) for a short trip back to Lopez and the Lopez Islander Resort. We prefer Islands Marine Center but they were unable to accommodate us. (We’ve had to make reservations lately – something we rarely do. And IMC is adhering to less than full capacity guidelines – others are not.) The current runs quite strongly through the marina docks, and it was tricky getting into our slip. Just as we were making the turn into the slip, another boat began backing out, right at us. We yelled and were able to avoid a collision. As it turns out, that was just one of many near-misses we witnessed over the two days as we watched boats coming in and out of the marina in strong current. (To be clear, the current makes it tricky, but some of this was just bad captaining!) The Zs had a heck of a time docking the Coorie Doon, as the lone dockhand (he needs support!) yelled instructions (not supposed to tell a captain what to do!). Later, Steve watched another boat slam into a piling. Basically, this was a shit show. For future reference, we won’t stay there again if we can help it. The fees are high (very close to Roche, where the services and amenities are 100 times better!), the marina is run down, and the whole place is badly organized. (Remember the time we sat in the restaurant for 40 minutes with no service?) And…we have avoided it before because it can get rowdy.

On Sunday, we were delighted to visit Kerrie and Lyn Sorenson, a couple with an RT-23 (the one that is always on a ball in the entrance to Fisherman Bay) at their home on the very tip of the spit (the one we always see and admire). The Zs made a former connection with them, and Lyn saw them arriving in the Coorie Doon, and invited them to happy hour. We got to tag along. It was a lot of fun because they have long-time family connections to Lopez and know a lot about the history and the island characters. Lyn’s grandfather used to own the old gas station. We learned a lot, and the big surprise is their pronunciation of wat’ muh. We have been saying wat’ moh for decades! (Spelled Watmough.)

We said goodbye to the Zs on Monday morning - they headed back to Anacortes. We plan to meet up with them again in late August/September.

On another note, we talked with the couple on No Worries (RT-29S) who were cleaning their fresh water filter. Thanks to them, we now know that we need to do some maintenance on that!

Our hope was to move further north into the Gulf Islands, and then Desolation Sound in September. It doesn’t look like the border will open…for a very long while…so our plans continue to morph.

We moved off the dock and onto the hook in Fisherman Bay for the next night and continued to enjoy Lopez.

After some research, we headed north into East Sound to visit Eastsound – the body of water, and the town, respectively. There is a very small, day use (small boats only) public dock, so we anchored in Judd Bay, just to the west of the town shore area. We kayaked into the beach, which at low tide was a pain – next time we’ll continue to the dock. We had a very nice lunch at the Madrona Bar and Grill – excellent curry mussels for Nick and BLT for me. We walked around town a bit and were impressed with the variety and quality of town attractions. (Makes us want to consider Orcas for future family gatherings.)

We spent a quiet evening enjoying the scenery. And then…rocking and rolling commenced! There was barely a breeze but we were bounced and battered all night by waves that built momentum up the sound (5 miles long). It tapered off for a few hours but neither of us got much sleep. At around 5am Nick got up, raised the dinghy and secured the kayaks, and we were on our way! Enough is enough. We pulled into the temporary guest dock at Rosario for a couple of hours to get our act together, then headed to Anacortes.

The wind forecast for Wednesday and Thursday looked bleak so we decided to pick somewhere to hunker down for a couple of days to ride it out. This will begin our journey home.


We are enjoying Anacortes…and the wind is kicking up! (Excellent lunch at Dad’s Diner – best fries ever!)


Yep, they've made a beer bong out of kelp!

A very busy Roche Harbor

Europa at mooring ball in Shoal Bay

Nick takes a swim in Roche Harbor

Great sunset view from Europa at Roche

Toasting Fisherman Bay

View of Fishing Bay from Madrona Bar & Grill, Eastsound

Most boats we've ever seen in Watmough Bite!

Tuesday, July 14, 2020

Orca Whales from a Distance | July 9 – 14 | Blake/Everett/La Conner/Sucia/Garrison

Indian Pipe trail side - Sucia Island

This is the second part of our 2020 summer cruising trip.

Heading to La Conner from Everett, just south of Penn Cove, we saw some Orca whales – they were along the shore of Whidbey, while we were closer to Camano – so no good pics. Got some good views with the binos though. Once again, we wouldn’t have seen them if there hadn’t been a whale watching boat in the vicinity.

We haven’t stayed long in places along our way north – we thought we’d stay a couple of nights in Everett and/or La Conner. As it turns out, we were just too excited to get up to the San Juan Islands!

The Everett Marina was another new location for us. By far the largest marina we’ve ever experienced – boats go on forever! There is a lot of space to walk, and a few restaurants (for when we do that again). There seems to be a lot of construction going on – the marina waterfront area is being transformed. Having never been there before, we have no comparison, but looks like it will be much improved.

Europa at North Guest Dock - Port of Everett Marina

Couldn't find these in my bird books

Big marina - and this is only part of it!
There were quite a few kites flying in one of the Everett marina parks. The octopus kite is 90 feet long!




As much as we love La Conner, there were a couple of downsides to this visit. For whatever reason, so many boats blew by us in that narrow channel that it was truly annoying. Very few people obey the No Wake signs – I have probably mentioned this before. We found our favorite spot open on one of the public docks, which was good (although there were quite a few spots open). The bummer was the guy in the crap-ass little sailboat parked next to us, who partied, screaming and yelling, half the night.

We arrived at Sucia Island on Sunday, headed for either Fox Cove or Shallow Bay. There were open buoys in both, so we opted for Shallow Bay (we snagged the last ball, but could have easily anchored – plenty of space.) The buoy was the closest to the bay opening, so we rocked a little more, perhaps, then boats further in – but we definitely had the best view!

We’ve hiked and kayaked, watched the wildlife, and witnessed a couple of spectacular sunsets. There is really nothing, in my opinion, quite like SJI hiking. Beautiful scenery from trails along clifftops, sometimes rugged, plenty of interesting flora and fauna, sandstone beaches, and not too many people. The number of people, however, has more to do with the pandemic situation this year. This island can be extremely crowded but the Fossil Bay campground is mostly deserted, there is space at the docks, and several mooring buoys available at any given time.



Our plan is to leave Sucia today (Tuesday 7/14), visit Roche Harbor to pump out and get water, then anchor in Garrison Bay.

Wednesday, July 1, 2020

Europa's trip to Silverdale in the Waggoner Cruising Guide newsletter

Click here to see my short piece in the latest Waggoner newsletter about Europa's visit to Silverdale.

Sunday, June 28, 2020

Heading for Home | June 25 – 27 | Port Gamble & Shilshole


Cruising the Hood Canal is a long haul. Would we do it again? Youbetcha. We would stay longer at Alderbrook for sure, and check out some of the anchorages in the canal. We’ve heard some people call it boring, some say it’s beautiful. I guess I think it’s a little of both. There are miles of uninterrupted forest and low boat traffic. The amount of wildlife didn’t wow us, and the ubiquitous Olympic Peninsula logging operations create a scarred landscape – clear cuts everywhere you look. I think an extended stay at Alderbrook with some boating friends would be a blast! What do you say, peeps?

The resort is quite nice – although most things like the pool and bar are not open right now. We went for a short but lovely hike across the street in their private, nicely maintained trail system.

Alderbrook Resort & Spa from the dock

We stayed just the one night at Alderbrook because the shrimpers were coming in and we thought we would regret being there when things got crazy. So, we took off Thursday morning for yet another new-to-us destination.

Port Gamble is a great anchorage although there is no good access to town. There is a beach that we were able to land our kayaks at, right at the former mill sight. It’s a beautiful spot and I hope they do something awesome with it. The town itself is about the quaintest we’ve seen. Great general store, the restaurant looked good, and there are nice shops.

Downtown Port Gamble


We were one of very few boats in the harbor. It was nice to be on the hook again.

Lonely Europa in Port Gamble Bay


On Friday we left Port Gamble for the Shilshole Marina – another new location! The marina is very nice…very big. We took a short walk and then took a short paddle into the mouth of the ship canal. It was quite breezy and had to paddle hard to get back in the marina. The area was crowded, and frankly, there were too many people not wearing masks.

We would go back to Shilshole, I think, some day when we have more time to walk and enjoy restaurants and parks.

I meant to include this photo weeks ago – our boat plant. Last summer this pot contained rosemary, which was nice but we didn’t use very much. This summer we decided a nice flowering plant would be better. So far, the Nasturtium is doing well in the sea air!



On Saturday morning, we decided that given the weekend weather forecast, and our proximity to the Foss Waterway, we would head for home…a few days earlier than originally planned. 25 nights on the boat!

In a couple of weeks we’ll head out again, north to the San Juan Islands…hopefully!

Wednesday, June 24, 2020

Hood Canal | June 24 | Pleasant Harbor


We had a nice cruise south from Port Townsend. We saw a lot of porpoise…and a lot of crab pots.
Mt. Rainier through the Port Townsend Canal

Port Hadlock


Hood Canal bridge

On the way to the Hood Canal, I decided to check out what the Waggoner Cruising Guide has to say about the Pleasant Harbor area. We were unaware there is a state park there, so we cancelled our reservation at the marina and pulled into the very small state park dock at around 3pm (it was a relatively long cruising day for us, around 35 miles). There was a local gentleman at the dock when we arrived and he told us the park had just opened 20 minutes earlier! He left and then we were the only boat there.

Here’s what we think: It’s a fine place to stop but not much going on. The state park is just the small dock and some restrooms. We attempted to walk to the marina but decided to kayak instead, as the only way there is on the extremely busy highway.

We never did make it in to the marina office – the restaurant is closed so we just paddled around. I found the proximity to the highway a major negative – truck fumes and noise. Other than that it was quite peaceful.

Off to Alderbrook…

Other photos I forgot to post earlier:

White boat is stranded; boat in the foreground is a quirky thing we see often. (Kingston)

Stay Awhile between two 41's (Kingston)

Nick visiting Stay Awhile (Kingston)

Boat Dog Chelsea (Kingston)

dramatic sky (Kingston)